By Caitlin Stall-Paquet

Captain Cécile Hauchecorne parked her Zodiac boat at the dock in L’Anse-Saint-Jean, a village of just over 1,200 on Québec’s Saguenay Fjord where granite-faced mountains plunge deep into frigid waters. After I stepped onto the vessel, she handed me a waterproof orange jacket and overalls, a beacon in the grey morning.

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